What is pH and why it matters
If you've ever wondered why your plants aren't growing well despite feeding them quality fertilizer and caring for them carefully, the answer often lies in pH levels. pH is a scale from 0 to 14 that measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. A value of 7 is neutral, anything below is acidic, and anything above is alkaline.
For growers, pH is critical for one simple reason: it directly determines whether nutrients in the substrate or water are available for plant roots. You may have a substrate loaded with all necessary elements, but at the wrong pH, the plant simply cannot absorb them. This phenomenon is called nutrient lockout and is one of the most common causes of deficiencies, even when the grower is doing everything right.
Optimal pH range by substrate type
Different growing media have different pH requirements for the nutrient solution. Here are the basic recommended values:
- Soil and peat-based substrates: pH 6.0 to 7.0, ideally around 6.3 to 6.8
- Coco (coconut fiber): pH 5.8 to 6.3 – coco is an inert medium and requires a slightly lower pH than soil
- Hydroponics and inert media (clay pebbles, perlite, vermiculite): pH 5.5 to 6.1
Why do the values differ? Soil contains organic matter and microorganisms that naturally buffer pH and help make nutrients available over a wider range. In contrast, coco, clay pebbles, perlite, and vermiculite are inert – they contain no nutrients or buffering capacity on their own, so the plant depends entirely on the composition and pH of the supplied nutrient solution.
What is EC and how it relates to plant nutrition
EC, or electrical conductivity (from the English term Electrical Conductivity), measures the total concentration of dissolved salts and minerals in a solution. Simply put: the higher the EC, the more nutrients dissolved in the water. The unit is most commonly mS/cm (millisiemens per centimeter).
For growers, EC is a direct indicator of how much nutrition the plant is receiving. Too low an EC means the plant is starving. Too high an EC can cause osmotic stress – roots cannot absorb water and nutrients because the salt concentration in the solution is higher than inside the cells. The plant then paradoxically suffers despite an abundance of nutrients around it.
Recommended EC values at different growth stages
Nutrient requirements change significantly throughout the plant's life cycle. General recommendations are as follows:
- Germination and early seedling stage: EC 0.4 to 0.8 mS/cm – young plants are sensitive and don't need strong feeding
- Vegetative stage: EC 1.0 to 1.6 mS/cm – plants build leaf area and need plenty of nitrogen and other elements
- Flowering stage: EC 1.4 to 2.2 mS/cm – demand for phosphorus and potassium increases, overall nutrient consumption rises
- Late flowering stage (flushing): EC as low as possible, ideally below 0.5 mS/cm – the goal is to leach excess salts from the substrate
These numbers are guidelines. Specific values depend on plant species, fertilizer used, substrate, and growing conditions. Experienced growers develop their own optimal value tables for their specific setup over time.
How pH and EC relate to each other
pH and EC are not independent variables – they influence each other. When you add fertilizer containing NPK and other elements to water, EC rises, but pH may change as well. Therefore, the correct procedure is always to mix nutrients with water first, check EC, and only then adjust pH to the desired value.
If you do it the other way around and adjust pH before adding fertilizers, the resulting value after nutrient addition will almost certainly change, and you'll need to correct it again. You'll save yourself work and adjustment products if you remember this as a golden rule.
How to measure pH and EC correctly
For accurate pH and EC measurement, digital measuring devices are available – pH meters and EC meters. They're essential equipment for any serious grower. Droplet tests or litmus paper are inaccurate and unsuitable for regular use.
Tips for proper measurement
- Calibrate devices regularly – pH meter ideally before each important measurement, EC meter at least weekly
- Keep electrodes clean and moist – never let them dry out
- Measure at room temperature of the solution; significant temperature variations affect measurement accuracy
- When measuring EC in runoff from the pot, you'll discover the actual salt concentration in the substrate – if runoff EC is significantly higher than input EC, it's time to flush
How to adjust pH and EC
pH adjustment is done using pH Up (alkaline solution, most commonly potassium hydroxide) and pH Down (acidic solution, most commonly phosphoric or citric acid). Always add in small amounts, stir the solution, and measure again. It's easy to overshoot and then you're correcting endlessly.
Increase EC by adding more fertilizer. Decrease it by diluting with clean water. If EC in the substrate is persistently high (check by measuring runoff), the substrate needs thorough flushing with clean water of adjusted pH.
Specifics of individual substrates
Coco
Coco is a popular growing medium thanks to excellent aeration and moisture retention. However, it's naturally inert and contains some sodium and potassium that can affect calcium and magnesium uptake. Therefore, when growing in coco, it's important to use fertilizers specially formulated for this medium and maintain pH in the 5.8 to 6.3 range.
Clay pebbles, perlite, and vermiculite
Clay pebbles are most often used in hydroponic systems or as a drainage layer. Perlite and vermiculite are added to substrates to improve aeration and moisture regulation. All these media are inert, so the plant depends entirely on nutrients supplied through watering. Solution pH should range from 5.5 to 6.1.
Soil and blended substrates
Classic garden soil or premium growing substrates have natural buffering capacity – they can moderate pH fluctuations to some extent. This is an advantage for beginning growers who don't have much experience with precise correction. Optimal pH for soil is 6.0 to 7.0.
Practical tips from experience
- Keep records – write down the pH and EC of every watering and runoff. Over time, you'll see patterns in the data and be able to predict problems before they show up on the plant.
- Don't blindly adjust tap water pH – measure it first. Water hardness and pH vary by region.
- When transitioning from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage, gradually adjust fertilizer composition – the transition should be smooth, not abrupt.
- If you notice signs of deficiency, always check pH and EC first before adding more fertilizer. Very often the problem is simply wrong pH blocking nutrient uptake, even though nutrients are actually present in sufficient amounts.
Learn more about how to identify and solve specific deficiencies in the article Nutrient Deficiencies in Plants: How to Spot and Fix Them. If you're just starting out and looking for an overview of fertilizer types, we also recommend The Complete Guide to Fertilizers for Beginning Growers. And if you're unsure which substrate to choose for your grow, read How to Choose the Right Substrate: Soil, Coco, or Hydroponics?.
Conclusion
pH and EC are two parameters that have a fundamental impact on the health and performance of your plants. Without regular monitoring and adjustment of these values, it's difficult to achieve consistent results, regardless of how quality your fertilizer or substrate may be. Investment in a reliable pH meter and EC meter pays for itself very quickly – in the form of healthier plants, fewer losses, and better yields. Start measuring, keep records of your results, and soon you'll find that caring for pH and EC becomes a natural part of your growing routine.



